Italian Trip Diary -- Day #3, Rome-Orvieto-Florence

Friday, June 15, 2001, Rome to Florence via Orvieto:

The next morning we searched high and low for the Hertz office; finally finding it deep within the parking garage under the Borghese Gardens.  With our Opel station wagon loaded down with (too much) luggage we drove out of Rome, getting lost on our way to the Autostrada to Florence and getting an unexpected tour of a Roman residential neighborhood filled with apartment buildings, shops and schools.  It's always interesting to see the places where a city's middle classes actually live. 

We stopped in Orvieto – a beautiful old walled town perched atop a mesa – for lunch right across the square from the Gothic cathedral (Santa Maria Assunta). 

Orvieto Cathedral, Santa Maria Assunta, west facade from our lunch table. Photo by Blomme-McClure

The exterior is horizontally striped white travertine and blue-grey basalt except for the elaborate three-door Gothic west front, considered a masterpiece of the middle ages.  The colorful mosaics show scenes from the life of the Virgin, with her coronation depicted in the top center gable.  The bas reliefs depicting Old Testament scenes on the piers between the doors are among the finest 14th century sculptures anywhere.  

Orvieto Cathedral, Rose Window in west facade created by Orcagna between 1350 and 1380 AD.
Statues of the 12 Apostles in niches across the top; statues of Old Testament prophets in double niches
on each side;  four 'Doctors of the Church' in mosaic corner spandrels; head of Christ in center.
Photo by Blomme-McClure 

Bronze statues of an Eagle, symbol of the Evangelist John, and an Ox, symbol of the Evangelist Luke,
by Lorenzo Maitani on west facade of Orvieto Cathedral.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

The interior is also striped in the same black and white stone and seems very high, although after visiting the great gothic cathedrals of France and England, the round arches and exposed wooden roof beams are a bit disappointing.  

Nave of Orvieto Cathedral looking west from the altar.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

Apse and Altar of Orvieto Cathedral.
Gothic frescoes on three sides of Apse depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin were created
 by Ugolino di Prete Ilario with help from others circa 1370.  
They restore the frescoes once every 100 years.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

There is a lovely crucifix in the second chapel on the north aisle and lots of other wonderful art.  

The views from the walls of Orvieto out over the surrounding countryside striped with vineyards and dotted with villas is captivating. 

View from the walls of Orvieto.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

The highlight of the day, though, was arriving in Florence and being escorted to our room (#305) at the Loggiato dei Serviti (Piazza SS. Annunziata 3, Firenze; 055 28.95.92 or 055 28.95.93). It must be the original “Room with a View” – a corner room on the top floor.  In one direction we had a view over tiled rooftops to the Duomo and Campanile bathed in the glow of the late afternoon sun when we arrived.  From another window we could see the bell tower of San Marco rising above the skylight over Michaelangelo’s “David” in the Accademia.  The concierge confided to us the next morning that it was the best room in the hotel and that she tried not to give it to those who requested it (the Loggiato had recently been featured in an article in one of the airline magazines which mentioned this room by number).

View of  the Duomo and Campanile from Room #305 of Loggiato dei Serviti, Florence.
Photo by Blomme-McClure

Carl’s room was two floors lower with no particular view, but with a lovely 4-poster iron bed with white gauze draperies.  We all loved the hotel and found the staff to be both efficient and very kind and friendly. 

The Loggiato sits on the square directly across from the  Ospedale degli Innocenti designed by Brunelleschi.  The entrance is on a loggia that mirrors the more famous one of the Ospedale with its medallions of infants – each one different – by Andrea della Robbia between each arch.  On the north side of the square sits the lovely church of Santissisma Annunziata which we visited on Sunday morning.  It contains lovely frescoes and a “miraculous” painting of the Annunciation which was “completed by an angel” when the painter fell asleep in front of the unfinished work.

The beauty of the square was somewhat marred by an outdoor café with a stage backed by a large movie screen and an adjoining photo exhibit in a big white tent. Latin American music blared from the stage almost every night as we went to and from the hotel, but none of the din penetrated to our rooms.  They continued to offer the serene calm of the old city – especially the Duomo spotlit against the dark sky viewed from our “room with a view”.

Looking down Via Dei Servi toward Duomo, Florence.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

After settling at the hotel, we walked out to the Duomo where the light of the setting sun on the west front and campanile created a warm rose and gold aura, then on to the bustling Piazza della Republicca and the Piazza della Signoria. 

Evening light on west facade of  the Duomo, Florence.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

Lorenzo Ghiberti's 'Gates of Paradise' -- the east doors of the Baptistry, Florence with
our friend, Carl, in the foreground.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

Detail of the 'Story of Joshua' panel of Lorenzo Ghiberti's east doors of the Baptistry, Florence.
Photo by Blomme-McClure

Baptistry, Duomo and Campanile in setting sun, Florence.
Photo by Blomme-McClure

They were just setting up a stage in front of the Palazzo Vecchio for a brass band concert as we wandered through.  

Palazzo Vecchio on Piazza della Signoria at sunset, Florence.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

We strolled over the Ponte Vecchio, always packed with tourists and unfortunately a heavy police presence, and into the neighborhood of Oglisanti on the far bank of the Arno, before turning back to search for a place for dinner in the Piazza della Signoria and the Piazza della Republicca.  

Twilight on the Arno, seen from the Ponte Vecchio.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

We finally settled on Ristorante Il Bargello in the Piazza della Signoria, but the only table was inside – so we couldn’t hear the band concert very well.  The food wasn’t good, the service was lousy, there were little flies buzzing around everywhere, and they proceeded to begin closing up before our meal was finished.  An unforgettably awful meal to end an otherwise lovely day.