Italian Trip Diary -- Day #7 -- Florence to Siena

Tuesday, June 19, 2001, Florence to Siena:

We were so enamored with Florence that we asked the concierge if we could to delay our departure from the hotel as long as possible.  She allowed us an extra hour – until 1:00pm.  So we were able to visit the museum of the Duomo (Museo dell'Opera del Duomo) in the morning.  It is a wonderful museum which presents many of the treasures of the Duomo, the campanile and the baptistery in a beautiful, modern manner.  There were several restored panels by Ghiberti from the baptistery doors (the originals which were deteriorating from the atmospheric conditions). 

'Story of Esau and Jacob' panel by Lorenzo Ghiberti, gilded bronze, 1425 to 1452.
Restored original from East Doors of Baptistery.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

'Story of Cain and Abel' panel by Lorenzo Ghiberti, gilded bronze, 1425 to 1452.
Restored original from East Doors of Baptistery.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

(The entire set of original panels have now been restored and reassembled in this museum, displayed inside a giant 'casket').

There are also relief panels from the walls of the campanile.

One of the original relief panels from the Campanile.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

And original statues from the façades of the cathedral, the campanile and the baptisery are all displayed.

'Baptism of Christ'  originally above the East Doors of the Baptisery (replaced by copies).
Figures of Christ and John, the Baptist, begun by Andrea Sansavino and completed by Vincenzo Danti, 1501 to 1503.  Angel completed by Innocenzo Spinnazi in 1752.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

'Saint John, the Evangelist' by Donatello, marble, 1408-15, from facade of Duomo.
Photo by Blomme-McClure

'The Prophet Jeremiah' by Donatello, 1423-1427 from Campanile.
Photo by Blomme-McClure

Also there are lots of precious reliquaries and similar items.

Reliquary of gold and crystal containing chains.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

These fragments from an arch were beautifully displayed.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

But the most prized object is an unfinished (by now we are not surprised) 'Pieta' by Michaelangelo which supposedly includes a self-portrait and was intended for his own tomb.  Compared to other Michelangelo works that we saw in Florence, it seems rough, heavy and mournful – the figures each seem to be in a different scale and don’t relate easily to one another, creating great tension and requiring work from the observer to understand this grouping.

'Pieta' by Michelangelo, marble, 1547-1553.
 The hooded figure at top is thought to be a self-portrait -- this grouping was meant for
Michelangelo's tomb before he abandoned it.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

There is also a rather terse wood carving of “The Penitent Magdalene” by Donatello.

'The Penitent Magdalene' by Donatello, carved poplar, 1453 to 1455.
In this work Donatello may have conflated Mary Magdalene with Saint Mary of Egypt
 who lived as a hermit in the desert.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

In one room there are two white marble cantori (choir galleries) -- one by Donatello and one by Luca della Robbia – that are masterpieces of relief sculpture.

Choir Gallery with relief sculptures by Donatello, marble, 1433-39.  Notice how the figures continue behind the columns.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

Choir Gallery with relief sculptures by Lucca della Robbia, marble, 1431-1438.  
Photo by Blomme-McClure

Additional Relief Panels by Lucca della Robbia, marble, 1431-1438.
Photo by Blomme-McClure

We left Florence with reluctance, climbing up over the hills past the Piazzale Michaelangelo and San Miniato al Monte and savoring the views of the city for the last time.  The Autostrada to Siena runs through high green hills, many capped with hill towns or monasteries silhouetted against an increasingly cloudy sky.  Our arrival in Siena was inauspicious since we had incomplete directions to our hotel and proceeded to get lost in the maze of streets leading to the center of the city. Fortunately, signs to our hotel, the Jolly Hotel Siena (now the Hotel Excelsior, Piazza La Lizza, Siena; 0577 288448, http://www.nh-hotels.com/nh/en/hotels/italy/siena/nh-excelsior.html), appeared about the time we were getting a little frantic.

Our welcome at the hotel was chilly.  We were informed that due to a street fair the following morning we would have to park in a lot down the hill behind the fortress.  Carl accompanied the luggage up to the rooms, while George & I took the car down the hill to a crowded, but free, lot.  Returning to the hotel, we found that the hallways were dark and low-ceilinged, the rooms were tight and the whole place was pervaded with the smell of a sour cleaning solvent.  Fortunately, our corner room had a wonderful view over the stadium to the cathedral.

Siena Cathedral (Santa Maria Assunta) viewed from our room at the Jolly Hotel Siena.
Photo by Blomme-McClure

After a brief pause at the hotel, we decided to walk to the Piazza del Campo in the center of the city – the famous square where the Medieval horse race, the Pallio, is run once each summer.  

Piazza del Campo, Siena.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

It is a wonderful space – a huge fan shaped bowl that slopes down from the entrances to the stunning Palazzo Pubblico (the town hall) with a tall tower (Torre del Mangia) at the end of its façade.

Palazzo Pubblico (City Hall) of Siena begun in 1297.  The Torre del Mangia (bell tower)
was added in 1325 to 1344 with the crown designed by the painter, Lippo Memmi.
Photo by Blomme-McClure.

At the base of the Torre del Mangia is the Cappella di Piazza -- an al fresco chapel.
It was added in 1352 to thank the Virgin Mary for those who survived the Black Plague,
which dessimated Siena in 1348.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

Opposite the town hall is a beautiful fountain of gleaming white marble.

'Fonte Gaia' (Fountain of Joy) designed and built in 1419 by Jacopo della Quericia.
Photo by Blomme-McClure

'Madonna and Child' at center of 'Fonte Gaia' by Tito Sirrocchi, 1866.
The orginal sculptures by Jacopo della Quericia are now in a museum elsewhere in Siena.
Photo by Blomme-McClure

We found a table at Bar Manganelli on the square and had barely settled when an enormous thunder storm swept over the city.  It lasted for nearly 45 minutes, but we stayed comfortable and dry and enjoyed a nice, late afternoon lunch.  When the rains calmed down we made our way back to the hotel.

That evening we went out to dinner in a light rain to Antica Osteria da Divo (via Franciosa 25-29, Siena; 0577/284381; http://www.osteriadadivo.it/eng/chi-siamo.htm) a delightful restaurant in an ancient building tucked behind the cathedral.  The translation of the menu into English was hilarious and gave us all a case of the giggles, but the food and service were seriously wonderful.  During the course of our dinner the waiter dropped by to show us several desserts as they were being served to other customers.  Needless to say, we all had dessert.  The courses were interspersed with small “gifts” from the chef and the whole meal was capped off with a complimentary lemon liquor, Limoncello, which we all found refreshing.