Italian Trip Diary -- Day #10 -- Siena to Bologna

Friday, June 22, 2001 Siena to Bologna:

The next morning we got the car and after loading up our luggage we proceeded to get lost in Siena trying to find the autostrada north toward Florence and then on to Bologna.  The countryside north of Florence becomes even more mountainous, with deep gorges and steep mountains.  The autostrada climbs over the pass punctuated by several tunnels and high bridges soaring over breathtaking chasms and then descends as you near Bologna into a broad plain. 

We arrived in Bologna in mid-afternoon and made our way down another primarily pedestrian street to the (truly) Grand Hotel Baglioni (Via Indipendenza 8, Bologna, 051-225445) – Bologna’s answer to New York’s Plaza and St. Regis and Carlisle all rolled into one.  We were led by an assistant manager (or major domo of some sort) through the grand lobby and along a wide hallway to our rooms on the third floor.  Actually, our room wasn’t ready, so we were led to Carl’s room which would have been big enough for all three of us – a king-size bed, a sitting area, a dressing area and a huge bathroom.  Because our room wasn’t ready, the management sent us complimentary coffee while we waited.  Another major domo appeared to escort us two doors down the hall to our room when it was ready.  Both rooms looked directly across the street to the cathedral which had imposing Baroque statues just above our level.

Baroque statue of saint on facade of Cathedral in Bologna.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

Bologna is famous for its arcades which cover the sidewalks all over the center of the city.  

Covered pedestrian arcades run for blocks in Bologna.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

Each of Bologna's arcades has its own distinct architectural style.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

They provide shelter from the weather – rain, snow, sun, whatever – but can also seem rather sinister when they are too crowded or completely empty (when they seem rather like particularly suspenseful scenes from some Hitchcock movie) or when they become shelters for the homeless.  There are two very tall medieval towers in the center of the city (a la San Gimignano) which lean perilously toward each other.

That evening, our friend Luca met us at the hotel.  We went first for drinks on the Piazza Maggiore between the Palazzo Comunale (city hall) and the Basilica of San Petronio.

Palazzo Comunale (Palazzo d'Accursio) on Piazza Maggiore, Bologna.  Photo by Blomme-McClure

Entrance to Palazzo d'Accursio with bronze statue of Pope Gregory XIII.
Photo by Blomme-McClure

Palazzo del Podesta with two outdoor cafes on Piazza Maggiore, Bologna.   Photo by Blomme-McClure

'Fountain of Neptune' in Piazza Maggiore, Bologna, by Giambologna, 1565.  
Unfinished faced of Basilica of San Petronio is in background.  Photo by Blomme-McClure 

The basilica was left unfinished when Bologna fell to the Pope and he decided that, if completed, it would rival Rome and the Vatican as a center of religion, learning and political power.  In the early evening the square was a lively spot and the café was a great place to observe the street life of the city.

During drinks Luca told us about the city – its history and architecture and famous university – one of the oldest in the world.  Luca obviously loves Bologna and is both an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide.

Many of the arcades in Bologna have painted ceilings with the crests of noble families.
Photo by Blomme-McClure

After sitting in the square for about an hour, we strolled down some of the arcades, past the Torri Pendenti -- the two tall medieval towers (a la San Gimignano) that lean perilously toward one another and on to Ristorante Cesarina (Via San Stefano 19b, Bologna, 051-23-20-37 or 051-23-55-43, http://www.ristorantecesarina.it/) where we sat outdoors under the arcade and enjoyed a lovely Bolognese dinner.  Luca had tortellini en brodo, lovely little meat-filled pasta dumplings served in a delicious broth, which is a local specialty.  The restaurant is on the square where the Church of San Stefano sits.  There are seven different sanctuaries within the church, each of which commemorates a different event in the passion of Christ.

After dinner Luca took us to the Bologna gay & lesbian center, which is located in one of the old gates houses in the city wall.  There are three levels which include several bars, a small disco and a performance space on the roof where we could see and hear a performance artist “performing” in a spotlight as we approached.  The crowd consisted mostly of young men traveling in cliques.  We had one drink and moved on.  Luca walked us back to the Baglioni and then he took Carl on to a gay bar.